1

Heat 2 T. oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet over moderate heat until hot but not smoking, then cook garlic and red-pepper flakes, stirring, until golden, about 30 seconds. Add broccolini and cook, turning with tongs, until coated with oil, then add water and salt and cook, covered, stirring occasionally, until crisp- tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer to a platter with tongs and keep warm, loosely covered with foil.

2

Heat remaining 2 T. oil in a heavy 10-inch skillet over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking. While oil heats, stir together flour, cheese and pepper in a wide shallow bowl, then lightly beat egg with water in another wide shallow bowl. Dredge 1 calamari steak in flour mixture, shaking off excess, then dip in egg mixture, letting excess drip off, and transfer to a plate. Dredge another steak in flour and dip in egg in same manner, then sauté coated steaks over moderately high heat, turning over once, until golden, about 1½ minutes total. Transfer to platter with broccolini and keep warm, loosely covered. Dredge, dip and sauté remaining 2 steaks in same manner, transferring to platter.

3

Pour off fat from skillet, then add butter, lemon juice (to taste), and capers to skillet and cook over moderate heat just until butter melts, about 45 seconds. Pour lemon caper sauce over calamari steaks and serve immediately.